Those of us lucky enough to live here know

that Enfield is the best of both worlds - close to London and yet surrounded by

green spaces. A few minutes in the car from Enfield Town and you can be in what

feels like the middle of the countryside, gazing across rolling fields and

getting up close and personal with the wildlife.

And of course, one of the best things about the countryside is its pubs.

Roaring fires, cosy nooks and hearty all-British meals served up alongside

local real ales - what could be better on a winter's day? In Enfield, one of

the pubs which appears to come closest to this ideal is the Fallow Buck.

Located on Clay Hill, this white clapboard pub is just off Hilly Fields and on

first impression is the perfect country inn. Inside, the decor and furniture

are a little tired and could perhaps do with an update but the dark wooden

chairs and low ceilings are quite in keeping with the rural pub idyll and

service is instantly welcoming.

The menu for both food and drinks is fairly extensive. Being a Sunday, my

boyfriend and I both had a roast but we could have had a mixed grill, lasagne

or fish and chips. The wine list had a good selection of both whites and reds

but, despite choosing a shiraz picked out in a special box on the menu, I was

told (after some confusion) that they couldn't do it by the glass. I had a

glass of the malbec instead, which was lovely as well as being cheaper. The

choice of ales was limited to one, Timothy Taylor’s Landlord, but was well-kept

so my boyfriend’s disappointment at the lack of choice was short-lived.

The food was served quite quickly, despite

the pub being busy, and was piping hot. Unfortunately though, the plates were

too large for the table and the portion sizes were pretty mean. To be served just

two slices of beef as part of my beef roast seemed rather unfair when my

boyfriend’s “trio” roast of beef, pork and gammon had three and the vegetables

were rather measly. There were quite a few roast potatoes but could have been

more and what there were tasted bizarrely of vinegar. All in all, everything was

very tasty – there just wasn’t enough of it.

Service was friendly if a little

unpractised – we were asked three times if we were ready to order drinks even

though we’d barely sat down – and the atmosphere was relaxed and warm.

If we were in the area again we would

consider going back, although with a couple of other pubs on more or less the

same road (the Rose and Crown further east and The Plough up in Crews Hill) we’d

be more likely to try one of those next time.

Cost: £25 for two; rating: ***